Test riding a true racing recumbent

LarryOz

Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
I took the M5 out for a test run this morning. On a three mile test segment I averaged 25.9 mph on 239 watts. How does that sound in terms of efficiency?
I was able to maintain 30mph at the Charlotte Motor Speedway on about 220 watts on my Arrowhead. 260watts I was able to average 31.7mph for 10Mile TT
Stava: https://www.strava.com/activities/1137498904
Here is the video:

Last May at CMS again - when they switched the course to the "Roval" which is much hillier and curvy compared to the "oval", I was able to average 28.9mph on 220W on the Vendetta:
Strava: https://www.strava.com/activities/1544239768
Video:

I can't even imagine riding for 22 hours. I once read that a single peanut contains enough energy to run a mile on, so perhaps dieting is the only practical way to lose weight.
When I was training for Sebring this year, I set my bike up under my desk and rode at 120-150watts for 10-12 hours each day 5-6 days a week. I lost 25+ pounds in 4 weeks and ate pretty much anything I wanted.
 

Osiris

Zen MBB Master
I was able to maintain 30mph at the Charlotte Motor Speedway on about 220 watts on my Arrowhead. 260watts I was able to average 31.7mph for 10Mile TT

I was asking specifically about the M5, since it's also one that Ed72 owns. The Arrowhead is in a different class than the M5; it's a purpose built racing recumbent like the M1.
 

trplay

Zen MBB Master
LOL, ED if we could just get you in a group zwift race once you would never get off the trainer. Your lust for data and speed simply would not allow it. Nice 600K BTW.
 

ed72

Zen MBB Master
I was asking specifically about the M5, since it's also one that Ed72 owns. The Arrowhead is in a different class than the M5; it's a purpose built racing recumbent like the M1.

I'm usually going a little faster (in the low 28 range) on that kind of power but in fast kit, warm temps, and flat road.
 

ed72

Zen MBB Master
LOL, ED if we could just get you in a group zwift race once you would never get off the trainer. Your lust for data and speed simply would not allow it. Nice 600K BTW.
They fed me like a pig and slept like at least 9 hours. Goal was just base miles and to qualify. I have my series done. I have another 2 weeks of base before getting more serious with intensity. BTW....eating a bit less and only water seemed to have helped. Lugging along at 90-100 watts and HR of 90 bpm on a bent on flat roads doesn't burn that many calories. Maybe 20 per mile and at least 90% fat
 

Opik

Well-Known Member
Just rode a nitro from trisled at the Sydney Classic Bicycle show today:
http://trisled.com.au/super-nitro-low-racer/
E5A4911-Edit-575x383.jpg

Man, it was so hard at the beginning.

1. Had to learn how to mount and dismount correctly.
a. mounting : sit down, put one hand down and slide forward
b. Dismounting" Put one hand down, push the bike forward, then stand up

2. Starting
a. Can't start at all, hit the shifter lever many times, and zig zagged into the grass (tested in Tempe Velodrome, Sydney)
b. Had to be pushed at first and concentrate going straight
c. Then leaned to push my self using one hand down,
d. hard to turn (rubs the tubes: look how the chain guides run between the for and wheel)
e. Sit upright first till you get to the 20 km/h speed, then lay back

3. had fun and blast with it. No numbers as I didn't use any computer
 

3bs

whereabouts unknown
In learning to ride my tica, my single largest advancement came when I incorporated an old car racing lesson to look where you want to go. I stopped looking close and looked to the horizon to ride and trusted my hands to steer where I was looking.
 

Opik

Well-Known Member
In learning to ride my tica, my single largest advancement came when I incorporated an old car racing lesson to look where you want to go. I stopped looking close and looked to the horizon to ride and trusted my hands to steer where I was looking.

This is literally the most important thing riding any bike/HPV. Look where you want to go, don't look below, don't look how you pedal, don't look at your front wheel, don't look at the tree, don't look at the truck....heads up, and look where you want you to go with your bike.

Applies in almost every bike and situation.
 

Osiris

Zen MBB Master
This is literally the most important thing riding any bike/HPV. Look where you want to go, don't look below, don't look how you pedal, don't look at your front wheel, don't look at the tree, don't look at the truck....heads up, and look where you want you to go with your bike.

Applies in almost every bike and situation.

Yep, I was taught that when learning to ride a motorcycle, a mountain bike, and even when flying a plane.
 

ed72

Zen MBB Master
Just focus on black pavement.

That was my thought today when I decided to take a KoM on a country road that has two rather sharp turns and what is suddenly coming the other way as I enter the corner, a gaggle of D riders taking 80% of the road.

I was doing 34 mph.

Just focus on black pavement. All 12 inches of it.
 

Opik

Well-Known Member
Another tilter. It seems that tiltmania is contagious.

Probably it seems to be easier to ride.

It was a DIY from Pete Heal, and from Domes I heard he has some connections to the Cruzbike Creator, John Tolhurst.

But kid you not, it is easily tilted which was why Pete put a brake there. After gaining speed, by then release the brake. Otherwise, you'd fall to the side. Chris had a try and couldn't get the hang of it. he fell sideways with the bike almost on top of him
 

Osiris

Zen MBB Master
I spent part of Sunday setting up the new SRAM e-tap system on my M5 Highracer, but I'm wondering now whether it was a good move. My confidence was eroded when I couldn't get both front and rear derailleurs to work simultaneously. If I got the blip-box to communicate with the rear derailleur, then the front wouldn't work, and vice versa. The instructional videos produced by SRAM didn't address this problem at all. Local dealers were of little help, saying only that they'd never encountered this issue. It was only after I found an instructional video posted by some random user that I realized that both front and rear derailleurs had to be paired with the blip-box at the same time. After that, everything worked as it should. But by then I'd done quite a bit of research, and I was a bit alarmed to find so many complaints posted on various forums describing e-tap malfunctions. I've been using mechanical shifters since 1970, and I can't recall even one case of a failure. There were of course cable tension adjustments that needed to be made on occasion, but I've never experienced a total failure to shift gears. And when such failures occur in the case of the e-tap system, the problem can't be easily corrected with a screw driver. Invariably the units has to be shipped back to SRAM for repairs, and that means significant downtime, not to mention the inconvenience of suddenly finding yourself unable to shift gears in the middle of a ride.

Something else that has irritated me about electronic shifting since the first time I tried them, is their relative slowness in performing the gear shift. With a mechanical shifter, changing gears seems almost instantaneous. The moment I apply pressure to the shift lever, I can hear the chain moving to the next gear. But with the e-tap, I noticed that the derailleur arm wouldn't even begin moving until I'd taken my finger off the shift button. This seems to happen with the Di2 system on my other bent as well, and it's especially annoying when executing several shifts in rapid succession. Why this has to be the case is beyond me.

Another thing that bothers me about the e-tap system is the sheer size of the blip-box. The one on my Di2 system is very small and can be easily concealed. The blip-box for the e-tap is three times larger, and can't just be tucked away somewhere. The problem isn't just it's bulkiness, but the fact that because of it's size, I'll have to mount it someplace where it's plastic housing will be exposed to the searing Florida sun 100% of the time. Anyone who has lived here knows what happens to plastic or rubber when it's exposed to the hot sun for significant periods: it becomes brittle and disintegrates. I've had plastic mirror housings fall apart, I've had plastic straps dry out and snap, and recently my plastic Garmin GPS mount split across the top and nearly fell off. To prevent that from happening to the e-tap's overpriced blip-box, I'm going to have to design some kind of cover to keep it out of the sun. The designers really should have anticipated this. Or perhaps they did and just saw it as an opportunity to sell more replacement blip-boxes. :rolleyes:
 

ed72

Zen MBB Master
Shoulda asked another M5 owner with e-Tap....the pairing instructions are miserable......it took me a few minutes to figure out but then again, I have experience with software junk...FD performance is pretty marginal. I am not unhappy with it but not thrilled either.

I put the clunky blipbox in this bag and position it on the boom just ahead of the stem. The two velco straps that would go around the boom are cut off my me and I use black monster tape to secure. It is actually pretty clean (and reasonably weather proof). I cut a small hole in the bag near the headset to slip the blip wires thru. The bag fits CC, cash, my asthma inhaler, a gel and phone....but it is tight.

Diamondback Camber Top Tube Bag

https://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-Camber-Top-Tube-Bag/dp/B01HEK33ZW
 

ed72

Zen MBB Master
A bigger issue with blipboxes? replacement. They are already getting scarce. Might be my last SRAM purchase if they leave e-taps customers in the dark. They should support this product with replacements for at least 5 or more years. Not confident is Zipp or SRAM at all and I have tons of their stuff. Lots of it breaks.
 

Osiris

Zen MBB Master
Shoulda asked another M5 owner with e-Tap....the pairing instructions are miserable......it took me a few minutes to figure out but then again, I have experience with software junk...FD performance is pretty marginal. I am not unhappy with it but not thrilled either.

I put the clunky blipbox in this bag and position it on the boom just ahead of the stem. The two velco straps that would go around the boom are cut off my me and I use black monster tape to secure. It is actually pretty clean (and reasonably weather proof). I cut a small hole in the bag near the headset to slip the blip wires thru. The bag fits CC, cash, my asthma inhaler, a gel and phone....but it is tight.

Diamondback Camber Top Tube Bag

https://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-Camber-Top-Tube-Bag/dp/B01HEK33ZW

Great idea! That's the bag I have on my TT bike. Good to know that I can put it to better use now. That also frees up the special blip-box mount they included. Maybe I can stick that onto the M5's frame so that I can place the GPS unit there instead of using a handlebar mount.

The e-tap system brings back bad memories of BMW's ill fated power brakes on some of their motorcycles about a decade ago. They were an expensive solution looking for a problem, and when they failed, the results were usually disastrous.

Oh yes, one more thing I noticed about the e-tap rear derailleur: it won't work with my 32T gear, so now I'll have to order a smaller 11T-28T cassette. More money down the drain...
 
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