Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
I can handle a bit of downhilling, it is the uphilling I'd rather do without. I barely have any hair so I need all the speed I can get to feel the wind blowing through it.
2022 Vendetta V20c with carbon fiber front end
- Thread starter Karl42
- Start date
I do more climbing than the average bent rider as I live in an area that requires it. I ride the first 1.5km of almost every ride I do at 10 average up hill with peaks of >15%. I also love going downhill on the V20. It is superfast. Going back down the hill to my house I hit over 80kph on the V20 (around 70 on the DF). This is because the downhill is straight and I know it well having ridden it 1000s of times. But when it comes to riding a technical downhill with blind switchbacks (can't see what traffic is coming the other way and if it is cutting the corner) more typical of a mountain climb, I am much quicker on the DF. If the road was closed and I knew it well I could probably match or beat the DF. But the V20 lacks the ability to change line midcorner quickly that the DF has. You can move you weight around over a DF to change the line. On the V20 I can adjust my line a bit once committed to a corner by pulling my body forward, but this often induces instability (tank slapper). It has gotten me out of trouble before though. Certainly the V20 is faster downhill on any straight downhill with good visibility... but when things get technical, the V20 is not as nimble as my DF.
LarryOz
Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
You are correct. I have added weight of up to 10 lbs on a totally flat circular route and once you get up to speed the weight has negligible affect your speed based on your average power input. Just random wind will affect your speed more than 10 extra pounds in your bag or in your belly. However with every % grade increase for climbing - weight is super important.
chicorider
Zen MBB Master
I agree that cornering on downhills is easier on a DF bike, but I have found that on the V if I put weight on the outside edge of the seatpan, similar to how a DF rider will weight the outside pedal, I can carve the corner pretty well. Keeping my head upright while the bike leans right or left also helps.
I actually find the V20 very fast through corners, but with a catch..... I find through smooth, open corners where you know there is nothing coming the other way you cannot see (or a stick or rock, or pothole), you can set the V20 up for the corner, and go through it as quick as a DF.... quicker if it is a pedalling corner. The issue I find with the V20 is many mountain descents are rougher road and blind so you can't see if there is something on the road on the other side of the corner. On a DF you can move your weight, adjust your line and brake. On the V, you are committed with the bike leaned over and your weight to the inside. You are already fully laterally loading the tyres so can't really brake much without reducing the lateral load which is difficult without getting you weight more central on the bike. Maybe this is something more common in the hills where I live in Sydney. The roads are a bit rough. They wind switchbacks through the bush so you can't see the corner exit or anything beyond the entry. They are around 5-10%, so you easily hit 50-60kph between corners. I have experienced similar in riding DF bikes in the alps in Europe.
I did a race at a car race track. There was one corner we needed to brake for on a bike. I was racing against mostly DFs. I was generally going through that corner >5kph quicker than the DFs. Because I did the same corner many times that day and knew the road was clear so I could commit.
I did a race at a car race track. There was one corner we needed to brake for on a bike. I was racing against mostly DFs. I was generally going through that corner >5kph quicker than the DFs. Because I did the same corner many times that day and knew the road was clear so I could commit.
chicorider
Zen MBB Master
@vosadrian I'm with you on that. My one spill on the V was a narrow, chattery corner that I had never taken before--a little sharper than I had guessed...grabbed a bit too much front brake, lost my front end, and slid on my left flank all the way across the road. I knew my error even before I hit the deck. I still take descents hard when I can, but since that wipeout I have been more mindful of pavement quality and visibility through turns, pulling back some when my confidence isn't 100%.
I'm looking at wheels for a potential V20c build.
https://cruzbike.com/products/v20c only says 12mm.
What's the width? 100 and 142 or some oddball format?
https://cruzbike.com/products/v20c only says 12mm.
What's the width? 100 and 142 or some oddball format?
100 and 142 width is correct.
Thanks.
Just saw some of the stuff i want to build up with on sale. I'll have wheels and three quarters of a group set sitting around, collecting dust until the frameset eventually gets to me
Wheels and 2x12 group has arrived (sans cassette). Trying for a lightweight bike to conquer all the local hills. Between variances on those parts i've already accumulated just about 100g extra weight vs. official listings.
Now for the long wait
Seeing lead times of 8+ weeks on the 12spd SRAM cassette, wonder if it gets here before the V20c frameset
Now for the long wait
Seeing lead times of 8+ weeks on the 12spd SRAM cassette, wonder if it gets here before the V20c frameset
If you don't need specific SRAM gear ranges offered in their cassettes, there are alternatives that work as well. On my road bike I have the TT 1X Force AXS and a Campy Chorus 11-34 cassette. I also tested a Chinese 11-34 12-spd cassette (Shimano splines) and shifts equally well. Apparently, 12-spd cassettes are close enough across manufacturers to be compatible, which was counterintuitive until I tested it myself. For my S30, I will be upgrading to road 2x Force AXS and a cassette other than SRAM just like my road bike. I find SRAM to be very expensive and require wheels laced with their freehubs, which I don't own. Just suggesting an alternative if you don't want to wait, providing you have wheels that can work with other cassettes. Waiting sucks!Wheels and 2x12 group has arrived (sans cassette). Trying for a lightweight bike to conquer all the local hills. Between variances on those parts i've already accumulated just about 100g extra weight vs. official listings.
Now for the long wait
Seeing lead times of 8+ weeks on the 12spd SRAM cassette, wonder if it gets here before the V20c frameset
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
I am using SRAM Force 2x12 AXS as well and running Camagnolo Bullets with Shimano freehubs, a 12-speed KMC chain and a 12-speed Ultegra 11-30t cassette with an R7000 Shimano 105 52/34t crankset and it works perfectly. I have an Ultegra 11-34t cassette that I will give a try at some point. 33t is the limit, but I hear that adjusting the B-screw to the max should work with the biggest cog on the cassette.
I have committed to a wheelset with an XDR hub (Xentis Squad 2.5)
in the past i was able to mix and match, but never perfectly. For example the cassette which came with my direct drive trainer will shift nicely and doesn't have skipping issues, but i've never been able to get the clicking out entirely.
The shimano cassette on my rear wheel that my derailleur is supposed to be used with, on the other hand, is nice and quiet.
If supply issues persist i may opt for the force cassette instead of a red. The frame set is an absolute minimum of 12 weeks away from me, might well take 16+ depending on when in September they ship and by which way they make their way across to Europe - i'll just sit it out
If it helps your estimation: I got the limited prerelease through the Dutch dealer to Germany on Monday. Was not too late after they sent it, I think.
(Can't comment yet, as I am currently too sick to complete, fit and test/learn it.)
Which model Force AXS rear derailleur do you have? The one on my road bike is the intermediate range model which is recommended up to a 33T cog. This derailleur didn't require any B-screw adjustment to make it work on my Chorus 11-34T cassette. The thing rocked right out of the box. Never had such a fast and easy derailleur setup before. Using it for almost a year now.
If you have the short range version of the Force AXS derailleur, it is recommended up to a 28T cog. That one will probable require a B-screw adjustment and maybe chain length reduction as well for cogs over 30T. This model is what I'll be using on my S30. Hope it works with the 11-34 cassette.
Incidentally, there is a third version of the Force AXS derailleur known as the XPLR for gravel, which is rated up to a 44T cog.
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
Mine must be the same model as your road bike model since mine is limited to 33t. It worked with only a 2-3 microclick adjustment on the Ultegra cassette on 1 gear. I have an 11-speed Chorus groupset that works lovely on my road bike, but once that goes out it too will get AXS.
Today I tested the Force derailleur on my S30 which is recommended up to 28T and works fine with the Chinese 11-34 cassette! This is without adjusting the B-screw or removing any links to push the chain away from the cogs. On top of that the chain I'm testing the group with is a 10-spd! LOL, I can't believe how easy and compatible SRAM AXS components are. I might remove two links from the chain just to be on the safe side, but preliminary testing suggests it's not necessary. Makes me wish all manufacturers made components this good. Seriously. I can't believe it.
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
Wow, that is great. I hope my 34t works too without adjustments. Yeah, compatibility is good for the customers, especially since SRAM is charging so much for its cassettes. I can buy a case of Ultegra cassettes (11-30 or 11-34) right out of the bike shop for about $95US. I don't know what SRAM is charging right now but I think it is more expensive than that. I was shocked at how easy AXS was to install or match with Shimano now.
Is there a curved slider for the V20C? I did not find it in the webshop. From my short time on the V20C (any Cruzbike at all) I would think I want my handlebars lowered. - Can this one also be used for raising, as was possible before with the round tubes?
I also did not find differens length chain stays. Longer ones would automatically lower the handlebars and shorter ones would make the curved slider more important.
Karl42
Well-Known Member
@Robert Holler has told me that "curved sliders for the V20c will be available soon".
